Building Your First Antenna: A Practical Guide
A dipole is a few pounds of wire, two insulators and a feed point. It will outperform most antennas you can buy.
The first antenna most operators build is a half-wave dipole, and for good reason. It costs very little, it needs no special tools, and when it is up at a reasonable height it will outperform most commercial antennas sold for the same money.
The construction is simple. The part that catches people out is the tuning, because a real antenna is not in free space and its resonant frequency depends on things you cannot easily calculate.
Materials
- Stranded copper wire, 1.5 to 2.5 square millimetres. Stranded survives flexing far better than solid.
- Two end insulators and one centre insulator or feed point assembly.
- A 1:1 current balun at the feed point to stop shield current.
- Coax of a size suited to the length of the run and the highest frequency you will use.
- Support rope that will not stretch badly when wet, and pulleys if you can arrange them.
- Self-amalgamating tape for every outdoor connection.
Calculating the length
A half wavelength in free space is 150 divided by the frequency in megahertz, in metres. The resonant length of a real dipole is about five percent shorter because the wire has thickness and the ends are not perfect radiators. The practical formula is 143 divided by the frequency in megahertz for the total length.
| Band | Centre frequency | Total length |
|---|---|---|
| 80 m | 3.65 MHz | 39.2 m |
| 40 m | 7.10 MHz | 20.1 m |
| 20 m | 14.15 MHz | 10.1 m |
| 15 m | 21.20 MHz | 6.7 m |
| 10 m | 28.50 MHz | 5.0 m |
Building it
Cut and prepare the wire
Cut the total length plus a little margin, then cut it in half for the two legs. Strip and tin the ends that will connect at the feed point.
Fit the insulators
Attach an end insulator to each far end using a secure knot that will not slip. Attach the centre insulator or feed assembly to the two inner ends.
Connect the feedline
Solder the coax to the feed point, keeping the braid and centre conductor well separated. Fit the balun at this junction and weatherproof every connection with tape.
Raise it and measure
Get the antenna to its final height before tuning. Measure the resonance point with an analyser, then lower it, trim both legs equally, and repeat until resonance falls where you want it.
Tuning
If the antenna resonates below the frequency you want, it is too long — shorten both legs equally. If it resonates above, it is too short and you need to add wire. Trim in steps of about two percent of the total length and re-measure each time.
The ratio of length change to frequency change is roughly constant, so after one or two trims you can calculate the final adjustment rather than guessing. Note the figures as you go; they will be useful next time.
What to expect
A dipole at a half wavelength above ground on 20 metres will make contacts across continents at 100 W when the band is open. At a quarter wavelength it will work the same continents with a higher angle and less reliability. The antenna is not the limitation — the ionosphere is, and the antenna only decides how much of your power gets into it at a useful angle.
Safety and licensing. Amateur radio involves radio-frequency exposure, high voltages and antennas erected at height. Operating a transmitter requires a licence in most countries. Follow the regulations and licence conditions that apply where you are, and never work on an antenna during a storm or near overhead power lines.